The Runway Recap

The SS18 Beauty Trends

As Fashion Month’s spotlight is undoubtedly set on new-season silhouettes, it’s the make-up that often complements – or completely offsets – the look. Discover how this season’s make-up follows the creative designer’s aesthetics to a well-though-out tee.

 by Martine Verhoeven

   From left: John Galliano, J.W. Anderson, J.W. Anderson, Rochas, John Galliano, Rochas

Back to black

Being the make-up equivalent of the little black dress, the little black kohl pencil, lined SS18. While John Galliano’s statement blazers, princess gowns and sheer silhouettes - barely covering jaunty lingerie – captivated the audience, models peered through black-rimmed eyes that made a statement of their own. Show-stopping liners were masterminded by M.A.C Cosmetics, who’ve been transforming backstage beauties for years on end. Inspired by a group of girls getting ready for a night on the town, liner in hand, five unabashed styles were applied imperfectly on purpose. As John Galliano opened with a punky approach, J.W. Anderson opted to leave the waterline uncovered and placed a thick liner underneath. Meanwhile, Rochas presented a delicate and graphic style that could only be dubbed catwalk-worthy.
   From left: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Balmain, Balmain, Givenchy, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Givenchy

Minimal mode

There’s a bare minimum that was swirled along Balmain’s, Givenchy’s and 3.1 Phillip Lim’s runway shows. Not concerning the collections – as Balmain easily married vinyl with romantic ruffles and 3.1 Phillip Lim reinvented style-savvy staples in its entirety – but the faces were kept purportedly empty. Seemingly, as the looks were never intended to be a ‘no make-up’ look, but more of a ‘bare essentials’ kind of thing. At Balmain, the skin was touched with a subtle glow while brows were groomed to obtain a perfected nonchalance. Givenchy embellished fresh faces with a single rhinestone that was placed under the eye, elevating the clean look with a swoon-worthy appeal. Translucent complexions complemented a lack of colour at 3.1 Phillip Lim, allowing for the vibrant pieces to speak for themselves.
   From left: Alexander McQueen, Ann Demeulemeester, Ann Demeulemeester, Lemaire, Alexander McQueen, Lemaire

Undone

 M.A.C Cosmetics’ tour de force approach to moody grey skies was shown in the undone faces that walked Lemaire’s runway. While seductive satin dresses, cinched waists and tie-dye silhouettes kept the crowds in awe, an audacious edge was brought to the make-up table. Creamy textures in muddy hues were blended smoothly, while a warm sheen was dabbed onto the skin to mimic a post-workout flush. The key to a nonchalant make-up look – a quick pint of beer pre-show – was unravelled behind the scenes. But as what happens backstage, stays backstage – you didn’t hear that from us.

Alexander McQueen’s unfinished eye variations swiftly snowballed into the smoky eye 2.0, with smudged shadows alluding to models taking a hasty pre-show dip in the Seine. At Ann Demeulemeester, grungy shades were dusted under the eyes only, adding to the distinctly moody feel of the look.
   From left: Dries Van Noten, Maison Margiela, Sies Marjan, Maison Margiela, Dries Van Noten, Sies Marjan

Power to the lip

 SS18’s lips were anything but sealed, as they made a statement that is set to last all season. Sies Marjan’s fluid silhouettes, often elevated with popping hues like burnt orange, light lilac and periwinkle blue, were complemented by orange-red lips, purposely overlined and heart-stopping as ever. A more sculptured approach was taken at Maison Margiela, with matt magenta hearts that could only be identified if you’d tilt your head sideways. And as if Dries Van Noten’s clashing prints weren’t captivating enough, he added drama to the face with rhinestones rimming the eyes and lower lip, establishing an immediate front row-favourite.
   From left: Céline, R13, R13, Véronique Leroy, Céline, Véronique Leroy

Washes & creams

Véronique Leroy’s super-attainable looks by M.A.C. Cosmetics were provocative in a wearable and natural way. Creams and washes allowed for the skin to show through the make-up, while still providing runway-ready staying power. Eye sockets were left bare on purpose - a variation also seen at Céline - while complexions were unified by a swift touch of foundation. Make-up remover was used to strip back the cheeks, just enough to make them stand out. A look that paired well with cream blusher applied with the heel of your hand to ensure the warmth melted it into an ultra-natural sheen. The realistic formulas added to the beauty equation, allowing for the collection of dazzling bodysuits, oversized belts and unexpected crochet knits to shine through. R13 showed a similar look, with well-tended flushed cheeks complementing clean eyes that lured under colourful trucker hats.