The Runway Recap

The AW18 Beauty Trends

There’s beauty in fashion, and then there’s beauty in beauty. Talking about the latter, we’ve seen anything from full-face glitter to head-to-toe body paint for AW18 – but only a few creative endeavours will stand the seasonal test of time.

 by Martine Verhoeven

The colour game 

Belgian designer Dries Van Noten was the first to entice the eye and make our minds wander. Lashes were covered in coats and coats of neon mascara, providing the brightest outlook we’ve seen this season. M.A.C Cosmetics’ gold-toned liner at Lutz Huelle proved a captivating way to frame the eyes without them totally taking over the look. Jeremy Scott, however, put all subtlety aside and kick-started a reverie of cotton candy shades and matching wigs, with an outsized liner looking captivating and futuristic in equal measure. And while we didn’t think it was possible, the American designer’s extravaganza was upstaged by Giambattista Valli, with glistening models that looked like they walked straight out of the Kirakira app. Faces were adorned with magical 3D glitters that, thanks to their holographic finish, truly embodied the concept of a lustrous glitter bomb.

 From left: Dries Van Noten, Lutz Huelle, Jeremy Scott, Giambattista Valli

Paint it black

The shift to black was made at Ashley Williams, where bright hues framed the eyes and cheeks, but was contrasted by dark black lips. A neat pitch-black cat eye was seen at Molly Godard, while Miu Miu went for a messed-up approach instead. The look was blurred to a seemingly nonchalant perfection, mirrored by the model’s carefully tousled hair for maximum impact. Gareth Pugh did black in the most dramatic – and best – manner of all, with theatrical smears that proved an artful match to his deconstructed silhouettes for AW18.
From left: Ashley Williams, Molly Goddard, Miu Miu, Gareth Pugh  

In the nude

Be it black or colourful: some designers simply didn’t feel like making a choice and went for neither instead. Bare-faced beauty was the catchphrase of AW18, with almost no trace of make-up at a plentitude of shows including LanvinStella McCartney and even Rick Owens. The designer opted to send half of the models on the runway in chalk-white paint that covered the face completely, while others went bare and natural in a way that felt effortless and surprisingly new. Isabel Marant stayed in line with translucent skin and brushed-up brows but polished the lips with a sweeter-than-sweet gloss that delivered the perfect pout.
   From left: Lanvin, Stella McCartney, Rick Owens, Isabel Marant

The lip treatment

 Then again, Fashion Week wouldn’t be Fashion Week if we all leaned into minimalism. To brighten up to the palette of AW18, the tinted lip seemed to be the way to go. Not all were obvious come Maison Margiela’s blue-hued approach. Chloé, instead, came up with a matte ‘my lips but better’ shade that blended right in with the eye make-up’s warm tones. The vibrancy was turned all the way up at Talbot Runhof, where dramatic draping at the eyes and cheeks was echoed by lightly stained lips in gradient shades of pink. Topped with a clear gloss, the look added to the label’s youthful allure. Alexander McQueen also stayed true to his aesthetic, with the audacious silhouettes’ red and black tones making their appearance in the model’s charcoal hair and blood red lips.
   From left: Maison Margiela, Chloé, Talbot Runhof, Alexander McQueen

The only way is up

 As all angles of the face were rigorously played out, it was up to the hair to top off the job. Buns and updos aimed for the sky, starting off with Chanel who took a classic updo and tousled and pinned it, making it the ideal addition to the autumnal forest that was laid out in the Grand Palais. At Issey Miyake, M.A.C. Cosmetics’ flushed cheeks and faux-freckles exuded a certain sweetness, while the model’s hair was bent in different directions to add a hint of wildness to the kind faces. The artful concept continued at Manish Arora, where geisha-inspired ensembles were topped off with full-face make-up and the most sculptural top-bun we’ve seen so far – undoubtedly requiring hours of meticulous sculpting backstage. Miu Miu wrapped things up with a voluminous beehive and a dramatic cat eye that would leave even the late Amy Winehouse in awe.
   From left: Chanel, Issey Miyake, Manish Arora, Miu Miu


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