The Runway Recap

Milan Fashion Week

With Milan closing the curtains on another fashion week full of spirit, three of the big four are already behind us. No need to sulk, because every dose of SS18 leaves us feeling even cheerier than the previous one. This time around, it may have something to do with the energising mix of prints, vibrant see-through dresses and glittery fabrics. 

by Charlotte De Loose

See-through colours

The mysterious act of covering up the skin while revealing it at the same time remains intriguing to many. Whereas during AW17 sheer fabrics are usually black or white, SS18 is having a do-over in a million different colours ranging from soft pastels at Missoni to bright blue at Jil Sander and fluorescent fuchsia at N°21. Marni's dirty pink version has pearl flower embellishments and is layered over another floral-printed dress, creating a silhouette of unparalleled depth. Playful layering, alternating between sheer and opaque panels or simply adding sheer sleeves to a top, designers are proving that there are endless ways to incorporate this sexy-yet-sophisticated fabric into your summer wardrobe. 

From left: Marni, Missoni, N°21, Jil Sander

Pushing patterns

If you didn't get the hang of wearing print on print just yet, you surely will next summer. The New York, London and Milan Fashion Week shows have taught us a decent lesson on how to mix prints that - in theory - don't match. The truth is, the abundance of prints this season will make your head spin, but in the most positive way possible. Marni's way of mixing florals with checks is fun and proves that one statement pattern can reinforce the other. Prada and Dolce&Gabbana threw everything in the mix from florals to animal prints and graphic patterns, without leaving out a single colour. Slightly less chaotic than the rest, Fendi remains within the same pattern family and combines checks with checks and stripes with stripes while using see-through fabric for a higher impact. 
From left: Fendi, Marni, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana

High shine

While we are taking our first steps into autumn, we've learned that contrasting fabrics attract and a delicate silk is paired effortlessly with chunky knitwear. Silk, satin, lurex, ... As long as shines it has a bright and colourful future ahead. Prada sewed together a colourblocking silhouette featuring vibrant orange and pink, shown with a pair of glitter nylon stockings. Alberta Ferretti's pastel-coloured ensembles prove that a glittery fabric isn't necessarily destined to end up in a dressed-up context. The trio of high-shine, pastel midi dresses by the hand of Donatella Versace as well as Lorenzo Serafini's deep blue flowy dress flawlessly added to the classic character of Milan fashion week. 
From left: Gucci, Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini, Versace, Alberta Ferretti

A hint of winter

The seasons are a changin'. And they are a shiftin' too. Many designers seem to agree and have embraced the fact that summer shouldn't solely consist of light jackets and bare legs. Between the flowy dresses and sheer tops, Fendi and Marni surprised the crowd with the occasional heavy fur coat. Alessandro Michele at Gucci not only did the same, he also added a hat and gloves into the mix. And there's another remarkable accessory that is no longer restricted to winter: nylon stockings and ankle socks. We've seen socks in sandals, yes. But the way these nylon stockings are easily worn under a summer dress as shown by Missoni, Dolce&Gabbana and Gucci, leaves us confused and asking ourselves why we haven't always worn them like this. Last to shield us from unforeseen conditions during summer is Alberta Ferretti, who casually threw a range of slightly oversized knits over her flowy summer dresses.   
From left: Fendi, Gucci, Marni, Alberta Ferretti

Pure white

The white brought to Milan Fashion Week for spring/summer 2018 was anything but plain and simple. The unpigmented staples that stood out in a forest full of colour are frivolous, slightly sultry and ever so feminine. One flowy dress appeared after the other, either in a subtle see-through fabric or with romantic floral lace. Jil Sander added a knotted waist belt and macrame detailing on the chest, evoking a modern feel. Etro and Fausto Puglisi took a more classic turn, each accentuating the waist and using lace in their very own way. Lorenzo Serafini's interpretation of the white maxi dress is a head-to-toe tribute to pleats, creating a fluent motion with each step and having our thoughts drift off to easy breezy summer days. 
From left: Fausto Puglisi, Jil Sander, Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini, Etro