The Mood

The Big AW17 Report

While we officially still have two weeks of summer left, our wardrobes and minds are already indulging in autumn/winter 2017’s newest cuts, colours and prints. Cosy knits, festive sequins and alpine-inspired gear might take the spotlight when the temperatures truly drop, but until then this edited list will provide the instant update to help you with a smooth transition.

by Chloé Bauwens

Moody blooms

The floral prints for AW17 are anything but sweet and endearing. Introducing these blooms onto darker backdrops reveals a moody and gloomy quality that translates into an overall new level of sophistication. While Joseph’s Louise Trotter printed flowers rather large and oversized on total looks, Isabel Marant went for a more scattered and romantic flowing silhouette. At Erdem, Moralioglu surprised us with tough looking floral trouser suits parading next to his covetable printed dresses and Simone Rocha kept the femininity that goes along with flowers intact by incorporating sheer and seductive elements into a rather dark and mysterious collection. Whatever flower you may pick, make sure to allow it to help you blossom into the new season.
From left: Erdem, Simone Rocha, Joseph, Altuzarra

Supersized

When one hears the word oversized, women tend to link the image that comes to mind to ill-fitting and unflattering cuts only suited for the skinniest and tallest gazelles out there. This season though, designers are once again making a case for the loosely draped and oversized trousers that were an ultimate hit during the Seventies. Aside from this subtle push, the negative connotations are anything but true. These supersized trousers aren’t only comfortable and relaxed to wear; they’re also ultra-flattering, highlighting the best aspects of the female body on every shape and size. The boldest options in the bunch are Trussardi’s cropped and printed pair or Véronique Leroy’s velvet option. As for the most versatile Stella McCartney’s high-waisted grey number will probably prove to be a favourite for years to come.
From left: Trussardi, Ellery, Stella McCartney

Monday blues

Where colour is concerned, our blues aren’t limited to Mondays anymore. Designers have each taken a spin with blue’s colour spectrum and come up with new and intriguing ways to integrate this trustworthy hue into your daily style choices. Where Roksanda Ilincic dressed her models in Australian designer Richard Nicoll’s signature blue shade in his memory, Josep Font’s models dived into the deep in hooded outfits in dark and alluring blues at Delpozo. At Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière had subtle additions of blue throughout the entire collection but wowed with an intense blue two-piece with contrasting white detailing. This season, feeling blue definitely becomes a coveted state of mind.
From left: Delpozo, Roksanda, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu

Leather weather

It’s time to take a new approach to leather. Thanks to Proenza Schouler’s designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, Loewe’s Jonathan Anderson and Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen, the fabric is finally growing out of its jacket status. Break the ‘one leather item at a time’-dress code and dare to go all out. Opt for a leather suit, top and skirt combination or dress in a striking and surprising hue. Whatever you do, a perfecto jacket is no longer perfect on its own.
From left: Loewe, Hermès, Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini, Proenza Schouler

The power couple

Monochrome’s official definition in a dictionary is: ‘A photograph or picture developed or executed in black and white or in varying tones of only one colour.’ Yet, for most fashion enthusiasts the word has nothing to do with photographs but everything with style choices and colour combinations. While black and white silhouettes can be traced back up to Coco Chanel in the 1920s, the powerful duo still manages to look as powerful and modern today. Integrated as a quirky polka-dot print at Emporio Armani or true to its heritage in a timeless pied-de-poule textile at Chanel, this duotone is an unrivalled source of inspiration.
From left: Chanel, Alberta Ferretti, J.W. Anderson, Marques' Almeida

Don’t frown brown

Former British Prime Minister Winston Churchill once said, ‘I cannot pretend to feel impartial about colours. I rejoice with the brilliant ones and am genuinely sorry for the poor browns.’ Naturally, he wasn’t there to see the mastery of this hue on the AW17 runways. Brown is probably one of the biggest hits of the season, showing off its natural elegance at designer collections of the largest luxury houses like Saint Laurent, Chloé, Max Mara and Mulberry. While we’ve always steered toward brown tones for our leather accessories, it is a welcome change to see this hue taking the stage in our daily outfits. From sweaters and skirts to coats and head-to-toe looks, brown is the new black.
From left: Coach, Max Mara, Acne Studios, Chloé