The Mood

Back in Time

Styles from multiple eras are resurfacing simultaneously this season. It’s no surprise really, considering fashion’s eve-shortening circle of life and today’s individualistic style dictums. Here are the key pieces with serious shelf-life, making their way back into our wardrobes this AW17 season. 

 by Siska Lyssens

The Forties: Feathers galore

The Forties are synonymous with femininity, that hazy concept whose meaning keeps shifting. One of its signifiers that can be hard to pull off are feathers – the fuzzy and frivolous accessory favoured by Hollywood stars Ava Gardner, Marlène Dietrich and Veronica Lake, the charisma plumes add to a silhouette is undeniable. They speak of bygone glamour and a seductive softness, but they can also be quirky and spirited. The eccentric quality of feathers became clear in the way Sonia Rykiel – ever the rebel – added them with abandon on silk dresses, wool coats, sequined tops, and on shoes and bags. Japanese label Sacai makes a reasonably discreet statement with a lushly feathered padded down jacket, but if actual plumage doesn’t tickle your fancy, try fluffy details in other materials. Lamberto Losani adds feathery trims at cuffs and necklines on his softly knitted jumpers, and with the furry-trimmed hooded on a Moncler coat, you’ll get instant glamour points on cold winter days. Teamed with a wavy hairstyle à la Catherine Hepburn, the picture will be perfect.
From left: Sonia Rykiel, Moncler, Sacai

The Seventies: The feminine suit

The Seventies flared pantsuit – preferably in earth toned suede or corduroy – makes a comeback, with or without pussycat bow-tie. Sticking more or less to the classic proportions, Joseph offers tailored velvet blazers that radiate retro craftsmanship, while Pierre Balmain’s more form-fitting style is more sensuous. Isabel Marant’s striped burgundy number plays with formality, as does Roseanna’s Prince of Wales check blazer. For a more directional silhouette, go big. Oversized is the word, both on top and at the bottom. N°21 offers chic, sculptural jackets that work perfectly with flowy palazzo pants. Look at Alberta Ferretti’s loose fitting trousers or Chloé’s wide culottes, too, and pair them with longer-length blazers, such as those at Neil Barrett

From left: Isabel Marant, Joseph, N°21

The Nineties: The bohemian maxi

Boho-chic was the buzzword during the late Nineties and early Noughties – when Tom Ford ruled the roost at YSL and Gucci. Long flowy dresses, sheer in strategic places, tied where necessary creating bulges of fabric that billow in the wind … This easy-breezy yet sensual style reared its head on various runways this season, too. Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini incorporated sheer loose fitting pieces in his runway collection – team his romantic lace maxi dresses with his silk ruffled blouses and be unafraid to clash colours and prints to achieve the thrown-together look. Floral printed frocks made appearances at Paul & Joe, Isabel Marant, Christian Wijnants and Marni. Alberta Ferretti, the mistress of the super feminine, romantic gown, went all out this season, pairing heavy-set smoky eyes with darkly hued sheer florals.

From left: Isabel Marant, Alberta Ferretti, Christian Wijnants