Designer Focus

Y/Project

Glenn Martens has been reinventing the brand since his start in 2013, allowing for street style pieces that feature a surprisingly versatile edge.

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About the designer

Paris-based label Y/Project was established in 2010 by designer Yohan Serfaty and his business partner Gilles Elalouf. Three years later, when Serfaty passed away, Glenn Martens was recommended to follow in his stylistic footsteps. Though hesitant at first, the Belgian designer has been helming the label as creative director ever since.

Martens is a Royal Academy of Antwerp graduate, but only by chance. As an architecture student, he stumbled across the academy’s structures and fell in love instantly. He was so smitten he enrolled straight away, leading him to eventually graduate as the first of his class. Later on, Martens worked for Jean Paul Gaultier and gained experience as first assistant to Serfaty. 

Where Yohan’s aesthetic was dark in nature, Martens wasn’t immediately convinced he was right for the job. During his first seasons, the Belgian creative decided to honour the label’s original aesthetic. However, over the following years, Martens’ true style started to seep through – reinventing the brand as a whole. Today, Y/Project’s collections fuse menswear and womenswear, with almost half of the collection overlapping. The versatile silhouettes show a knack for street style cool while boasting a blend of vintage and innovative elements. The garments are often adjustable, allowing for you to restyle and modify the pieces as you go.

Collection spring/summer 2018

Y/Project’s spring/summer 2018 collection reflects the eclectic personality of the designer Glenn Martens. His refreshing no-rule approach allows the collection to borrow from a myriad of references, characters and silhouettes. The garments took on surrealistic dimensions through re-construction of low-brow staples. Striped golf polos folded over for a fanciful appeal, tulle was wrapped wildly around the models, and a sportswear jacket became an avant-garde frock with tremendous volume by tying and layering the material. Martens showed off his artisanal skills with intricate beading that elegantly vamped up a cotton shirt, a tracksuit and seductively sheer second-skin ensembles. The decadent drama did not take a halt when it came to the shoes, with striking boots that are more of an artwork that an add-on to your outfit