Designer Focus

Kenzo

Taking their inspiration from street style and the brand’s profuse archives, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon converted Kenzo’s clothing and merchandise into a covetable and approachable brand for all ages.

 

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New Season Collection


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About the designer


When Carol Lim and Humberto Leon took over from Kenzo Tadaka in 2011, they were gifted a never-ending source of inspiration with the substantial Kenzo archives. Tadaka’s Paris-based brainchild has been an important brand for the fashion industry since 1970 and is known for its eclectic Japanese legacy mixed with Parisian cool. The new pair of creative directors, has successfully found a way to keep Tadaka’s spirit alive, while also incorporating a new and younger sense of worldliness to brand. Drawing from the archives, Leon and Lim reinvented pop-art motifs and quickly created cult favourites with the tiger and eye logo. Their usage of prints and colourblocking combined with fresh and urban influences makes for a vintage-inspired feel desired by young and old.

Collection autumn/winter 2017

It was the intriguing world of Arctic surfers that inspired Carol Lim and Humberto Leon for this AW17 collection. Both creative directors pulled off amazing silhouettes fusing cold-weather active wear into elegant, flattering looks. Bright, bold colours set the tone on hot pink shearling coats, vibrant prints and vivid, monochrome dresses. Dresses cut from graphic floral jacquards were cinched with ski-inspired waist belts. Bias-cut tartan prints were the main pattern in the collection. Ribbed turtleneck knits were layered under dresses and jackets often detailed with knotted tassels. The collection was presented on an ‘open’ catwalk with the backstage elements all visible for the fashion public. Instead of spending money on a fancy catwalk installation, Kenzo donated to the organisations ‘Ideas For Us’ and ‘Earth Guardians’, both of these urging us to solve environmental problems and let us all act together to find solutions.