Designer Focus

Helmut Lang

Launched in Paris in 1986, Helmut Lang was one of the early advocates for a less-is-more approach. His minimalism and simplicity is still a strong presence in the aesthetic of today’s design team being translated into clean lines and modern proportions created from luxe materials.

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About the designer


Austrian designer Helmut Lang has had a strange starting point in fashion. His stepmother forced him to wear his dad's suits to school and at home – every day. Calling her 'the classical stepmother in a bad Hollywood movie', he soon felt the urge to move out and set up a made-to-measure studio in Vienna. Even though his team consisted of only three seamstresses, he managed to open a boutique in 1979. A few years later, he had the crazy idea of doing a womenswear show in Paris. Even though Helmut Lang never studied fashion, he managed to create a women’s and menswear line and successfully introduced his brand in New York in 1997. In the industry, Lang was known to be always ahead of his time, referring to his contemporary and minimalistic designs. Many other designer collections were influenced by his perspective on fashion.

In 2007, Nicole and Michael Colovos took the helm of the brand after Helmut Lang resigned. They decided to focus solely on the womenswear line, which is characterised by an uncompromising palette of black, white and grey. Nicole and Michael respect Helmut Lang's legacy but prefer to not look back when it comes to the creative part. Their strong interest in fabrics and weaving and blending techniques, combined with the fact that they actually wear their own clothes, enables them to continually refine their ideas and designs.

Collection autumn/winter 2017

Well aware that minimalism is alive and blooming, it has transformed autumn/winter 2017’s full-on classic way of dressing. Leave it to Helmut Lang to bring back sleek authentic silhouettes exuding monochrome hues and a contemporary dose of androgyny. As cropped flares, asymmetric hemlines and ripped sweaters maintain the renowned label’s off-duty look, Lang’s depiction of fashion is the kind of luxury we are all excited about.