Designer Focus

Helmut Lang

Launched in Paris in 1986, Helmut Lang was one of the early advocates for a less-is-more approach. His minimalism and simplicity is still a strong presence in the aesthetic of today’s design team being translated into clean lines and modern proportions created from luxe materials.

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About the designer


Austrian designer Helmut Lang has had a strange starting point in fashion. His stepmother forced him to wear his dad's suits to school and at home – every day. Calling her 'the classical stepmother in a bad Hollywood movie', he soon felt the urge to move out and set up a made-to-measure studio in Vienna. Even though his team consisted of only three seamstresses, he managed to open a boutique in 1979. A few years later, he had the crazy idea of doing a womenswear show in Paris. Even though Helmut Lang never studied fashion, he managed to create a women’s and menswear line and successfully introduced his brand in New York in 1997. In the industry, Lang was known to be always ahead of his time, referring to his contemporary and minimalistic designs. Many other designer collections were influenced by his perspective on fashion.

In 2007, Nicole and Michael Colovos took the helm of the brand after Helmut Lang resigned. They decided to focus solely on the womenswear line, which is characterised by an uncompromising palette of black, white and grey. Nicole and Michael respect Helmut Lang's legacy but prefer to not look back when it comes to the creative part. Their strong interest in fabrics and weaving and blending techniques, combined with the fact that they actually wear their own clothes, enables them to continually refine their ideas and designs.

Collection spring/summer 2017

Nicole and Michael Colovos master, as per definition, the urban-chic look. The SS17 collection consists of neutral and minimalistic wardrobe staples with simple lines and soft fabrics. Don’t call them basic though, that would be blasphemy as the sleek shirts, long jackets and clean-cut blouses are all superbly tailored with strapping details. Fine-ribbed sweaters and straight-leg silk trousers form the base of the uniform-like silhouettes that blend perfectly into both casual and formal attire. Realness is still an indicator of quality as the collection was created to meet the style requirements of urban creatives’ busy schedules.